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Post by Bushbum on Apr 9, 2014 14:56:10 GMT
I wanted to start a thread specifically dedicated to the Bow and drill, I issued my challenge in a previous thread and have gotten 3 coals for the first week of April 2 uisn yucca on linden, 1 with staghorn sumac
I am far from being proficient with tha bowdrill so lets hear your tips pointers success and failures and make this thread a resource for consistant bowdrill success.
I know what your thinking... I have a lighter, matches, a fresnel lens, a ferro rod, who cares about rubbing sticks together.
But hrere is little doubt that the ability to reliably light fire by friction ia considered a quintessntial bushcraft skill, iot combines knowledge of local botany, fire craft, and knife work, and it;s just sexy as heck.
I've had succes with all the beginner woods: yucca, linden, sumac, poplar, autumn olive, white cedar.. and while I an find those in my area.. they are far from what I would consider prevalent, what other woods are out there in your geographic region that work for you? any more tips for us enorth easterners? lot of oaks. hemlocks, maples, and birch up here.....
I've noticed that I prefer a longer spindle shorter spindle allow my bracing wrist to move too much
also if I take my time to carve my spindle in a way that reduce friction at the bearing block I use much less effort
I want to master this skill... so lets all contribute and learn from eachothers success and failures.
Let the posting begin
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Post by DOC-CANADA on Apr 9, 2014 16:41:35 GMT
Hey John, one very common and readily accessible wood, I noticed that was missing from your list is Manitoba Maple (Acer negundo) AKA Boxelder. Not quite as good as American Basswood (Tilia Americana) but still pretty good. I also noticed that you listed Linden. I'm guessing it's fairly available to you because it was planted in cities quite a bit. It's a brother to Basswood - same genus.
I also use a long drill but it's because I have a herniated disc and it's just easier for me (not to mention my beer gut  ) but I agree that it helps to prevent wobble at the hearth level.
A few years ago, I did a tutorial on BF on bow drill fire making. You may have seen it. If you're interested, you can find it HERE.
Like you, I consider it one of the most important survival skills. There is a survival instructor up here, that doesn't teach friction fire. Doesn't make any sense to me. And "I have a lighter, matches, a fresnel lens, a ferro rod, who cares about rubbing sticks together" kind of reasoning also suggests, "Why do I need to know how to build a debris hut, when I have a Winnebago?" or "Why do I need to know primitive navigation when I have a GPS?" "Why do I need to learn wilderness survival techniques when I can stay at home?" And on and on it goes.
One suggestion I would make to anybody as they learn friction fire techniques is to keep a log, listing every attempt, what woods were used, any difficulties noted, etc. I find it to be a very valuable resource especially for us with geezer memory.  I did this when doing hand drill and I've referred to it quite often over the years.
Anyway, looking forward to everybody's successes.
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Post by Bushbum on Apr 9, 2014 18:39:40 GMT
Doc,
AS always thank you so much for sharing such great advice. There are allot of debates on various forums on the difference between bushcraft and survival, for me on a personal level, the main difference is bushcraft is the practice of a given skillset for nothing more than the knowledge and joy associated with achieving a skill set. Is bowdrill maybe obsolete? maybe by todays standards... but by todays standards Marylin Monroe would be considered obese, and I sure wouldn't mind spending some time with her.
In addition as a commentary on society in general with the advances of technology we live in world where nothing is sacred... I can turn a button on my stove and get flame, I can go to the sink and get drinkable water..
starting a fire by friction using the coals to burn out a basin that you can fill with water to boil with hot rocks just to get a drink?
that is a humbling example of how as a society we have come to take things for granted that our ancestors held to be sacred on an elemental level
So here'e to keeping it sacred,
Sorry for the philisophical rant.
Thanks again I will start a journal that's a fantastic idea.
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tonym
New Member
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Post by tonym on Apr 11, 2014 15:29:22 GMT
Doc's Tutorial is excellent! I also like a longer spindle, but I will also mention that a longer bow works better for me too. The longer bow will get you more rotations with less effort. However making the bow too long can make it unmanageable..
Also the more types of woods you use the more the technique will change. For instance when I got a coal with White Pine I used very little downward pressure but a lot of speed. If I pressed too hard I drilled through the board quickly. A harder wood required more downward pressure..
There is a learning curve and when I was practicing everyday I got really good. Heck there was a few times I would go out in the winter, find a standing dead tree and make a bow drill fire with out even knowing the type of wood.. So first in foremost I think the wood should be good and dry, not overly oily, and medium in density.
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Post by Bushbum on Apr 29, 2014 12:07:18 GMT
I had to return to my child hood home for a few days last week to attend to some family buis. any eay the creek behind my mtohers house which was once a rocky stream bed where I fished and caught crayfish, is and has now a riparian type river valley a corridor for all types of critters from beaver to deer and turkey...
It has also become populated with stands of willow and sycamore... which the beavers seem to love in fact it would seem beavers and stick twirlers look for the same qualities in wood.. and in most cases the Beaver will with take the time to do some of the cutting and drying for us.. son in about 20 min of scouting I came away
enough wood for 3 proven bowdrill sets
lessons I learned? Look to the beave!!(uhh i know) secondly is that willow sycamore and scuh seem to love river valleys so even though the surrounding topography is mostly beech hemlock and oak.. one might be able to cross off the need for fire and water just by seeking out water
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murv
New Member
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Post by murv on Jul 5, 2014 3:16:43 GMT
I am curious as to what you guys think about a ball bearing as a bearing block?, I ordered some 3/4" id bearings to try, hopefully I can get enough downwards pressure to make them work.
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Post by DOC-CANADA on Jul 7, 2014 3:02:57 GMT
Doesn't look like anybody's gotten back to you. OK, my take - a ball bearing would work although you may have to alter the shape of the top of the drill. My question would be why do you want to use ball bearings? I'm assuming that you have not yet been successful at bow drill and you're trying to improve your odds? While I can understand that, if it's the case, you would do just as well with a shot glass as the bearing block. Minimal friction and easy to hold.
One caution, though. If you choose to use a shot glass, tape it heavily on the outside with duct tape. They have been known to break when used for this purpose and it could drive glass shards into your hand. My personal choice for a bearing block is a piece of moose antler - you can see it in the thread I have hyperlinked in my above post. In fact, if you have yet to have success with the bow drill, check out my hyperlinked tutorial above.
If you have any other questions, please feel free to ask. I'll try to keep an eye here, so a reply will be a little quicker.
Doc
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murv
New Member
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Post by murv on Jul 7, 2014 21:47:27 GMT
Thanx Doc, for replying to my question., I have been successful in getting fire with a bow drill, but I will admit, if I can increase my odds of getting fire, or making it slightly easier, I'm all for it,,,well, if I'm not in 1750's period dress...lol.
I got fire over the weekend,,,with my trusty willow hearth board, and spindle. I found some mullien stalks, but haven't tried them yet, and unsure if they're gonna work. Pretty pithy on the inside..we'll see..I work tons of overtime, so I don't get much time to practice.
You guys that post comments on here are awesome, it's nice to read other people's ideas.
Murv
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Post by DOC-CANADA on Jul 9, 2014 4:33:54 GMT
Hey murv, if you really want to make things easier, get some Basswood (Tilia Americana) for both the hearth and the spindle. It works much better than Willow (Salix spp.), at least in my experience.
I don't know where you live, so I don't know if Basswood grows in your area.
Doc
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) but I agree that it helps to prevent wobble at the hearth level.
I did this when doing hand drill and I've referred to it quite often over the years.
